Motorcycling is cool. Motorcycling is fast. Motorcycling gives you a rush. There is no doubt about it. I don't think anyone can dispute the fact that there is a certain breed of person out there that just loves the feeling of being out in the fresh air, cruising down the highway. I suspect there are a lot more people who would like to ride than we know about. The question is, how do they get going?
It's like a lot of things; take it one step at a time. Later on, I will give my 5 top ways to get into riding, but first, I am going to tell you about my own experience learning to love motorcycles.
I would say I was about 14 years old when I purchased my friend's tiny Honda Z50R. It was very small, but very fun. I used to ride it around the block and travel to friend's houses on it. I grew out of that bike fast, but I did learn a few things; how to balance and corner a motorcycle.
My next few motorcycles were all dirt bikes. They were a Suzuki RM80, Honda CR125 and a Suzuki RM125. These were bigger machines and worthwhile investments. They taught me how to ride taller motorcycles and how to ride on a dirt track.
There were many other smaller learning experiences that went along with owning and riding dirt bikes. Those came with time. Some of them included learning where the best dealerships were located, how to repair and maintain a motorcycle, how to purchase the right parts and where the best places to ride were. It was a lot of fun and I wouldn't give up those experiences for anything.
When I turned 17 years old, I purchased my first street bike. It was a Suzuki GR 650 Tempter. This was a big change for me, because I had never ridden a street motorcycle before. I have to say, it was a great learning bike. There was enough power, but not too much to do anything stupid or get in any trouble. The bike was smooth and just enough to get my feet wet on the streets.
There were a few years during college where I didn't own a motorcycle, but knew I would soon. After college, I went ahead and bought the bike I own today, a Suzuki GSXR 1100. This is one serious motorcycle, and yes, one I could easily get in trouble on. Sometimes I get shaken by its unexpected power. I would only recommend this type of motorcycle to the most mature and experienced rider.
I love my current motorcycle, but will admit that it does get on my nerves at times. I sometimes wish I owned a laid back highway cruiser. Now that I am getting older, I don't enjoy hunching over the gas tank as much as I used to. Style is not as important to me anymore and comfort is becoming more. Also, having a larger seat for a passenger is becoming a necessity. No passenger likes riding so high up and having to hold on for dear life.
With all the experience I have gained on a wide variety of motorcycles through the years, I feel that I am in a position to offer to some great tips on how to get into riding.
1. Visit a dealership. Yes, it seems so simple, but a huge hurdle to get past is deciding if you really can feel it in your blood. If you are like me, you will leave the dealership panting like a fool. If you leave still undecided, motorcycling might not be right for you.
2. Talk to people. If you have ever heard a group of riders talk about a trip they have taken or are about to take, chime in. Ask them questions and notice how easily they will include you in the ride. Some of them might even offer to take you as a passenger. The community is friendly and always welcoming to new riders.
3. Think about costs. Motorcycling can be an expensive hobby if you are just getting by already. You need to be ready for the financial side of things. You can expect the cost of the motorcycle, insurance, registration, maintenance, apparel and the cost of fuel. It's easy to get sucked in to buying every after market part available for your motorcycle, so be sure you can afford the hobby first.
4. Go for a ride. Try to find someone who owns a motorcycle and ask them if you can hop on the back during their next ride. Try to find someone with a larger motorcycle for this, especially if you are larger yourself. You'll know if motorcycling is the right thing to do once the wind hits your face.
5. Take a training course. I am one of those types of people who just want to get a bike and hop on, but friends of mine have told me how important a training course really is. They thought they knew all there was to know about motorcycling, but each day they came away with new knowledge. It's important to learn how to ride properly.
After considering and completing the tips above, you should be in a position to purchase your first motorcycle. Look through the motorcycle classifieds or visit your local dealer. Find the right motorcycle for you and make the purchase. Since you made some riding contacts and are somewhat familiar with motorcycling in general, you should be in good shape. Just remember, safety comes first and when it comes to riding, patience is a virtue.
This article was written by Jay Gaulard on behalf of http://www.cycleclassifieds.us , a popular motorcycle classifieds website.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance
The Thrill of Motorcycling - 5 Ways to Get into Riding
Honda Motorcycle Maintenance (The motorcycle maintenance)
The Motorcycle Maintenance totally agree that it is important to check your motorcycle before you go for a ride. Maybe it would be too much for you to do it everyday but you have to do it at least before you go out especially for a very long ride. This ride can't just be hauled and you'll be spending hundreds of dollars because you missed one thing that led to another problem. So here are some of the things that you should check before going out, full throttle.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance
Tires - the most important of them all. Check the tires of your Honda motorcycle and make sure they are inflated properly. Under-inflated tires will take in heat faster than regular tires. With too much heat, the tire will blow up unexpectedly, and you'll be lucky if you don't have an accident because of blown tires. To make sure you have the digits correct, purchase a portable gauge to know the psi of your tires.
Brakes - most of the accidents come from the fact that brakes don't work. So before you go out and take the long ride, check your brakes. Make sure the break fluid in your motorcycle is enough. It's even better if it's. Check the front and back break fluids of your motorcycle. Check the break pads when you're at it. Thin break pads should be changed immediately. You don't want to realize that you don't have any break when you are already on the road and more than 60mph on your motorcycle.
Chains - It will not really cause major accidents but it will cripple your motorcycle to a halt. Before you go out and do a major road trip on your motorcycle, lubricate them before you even go out. You really don't need to do it everyday but at least do it every time you visit the gas station. This will ensure your chains will complement your rear tires and will not contrast to it. The last thing that you need in your motorcycle is a busted chain especially on a road trip since chains maybe the last thing you'll think will break.
Fuel and Oil - probably the most important for a smooth ride. You Honda CBR 600 will naturally stop if you don't have enough gas. For long rides, oil should be checked especially the oils in your break fluids.
Battery - You'll know you need one when you can't start anything electronically. Every light and signal that you'll need for your trip should be there. If it needs refill, do not use tap water. There's specific water for batteries and they are deionized water. Distilled water could also be an option.
These are the things that you should check before you go out even for a short ride. This will also ensure that your motorcycle will also last longer.
-the motorcycle maintenance
Motorcyclist Checklist - Before you ride (The Motorcycle Maintenance)
Check the fluids. Start with the engine oil. If it's been a while since you've ridden, start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes (fast idle is best - around 1500 RPM). This allows the oil pump to return any oil to the tank that may have seeped past the check ball in the pump, and it allows the oil to warm up slightly, giving you a more accurate check. Oil expands with heat, and your oil level will rise as the bike warms up. Check the oil in the correct position, with the bike to on the side stand or upright as recommended by the factory. Next, check the transmission oil level, following the correct procedure for your model. If your motorcycle has a wet clutch, check the primary oil level. Use Syntehtic motor oil. I prefer AMSOIL.
Check the battery. New motorcycles use a sealed battery, but older bikes still need your attention. Remove the battery for a thorough inspection, checking for corrosion at the terminals and cracks or leakage around the case. Make sure the vent hose isn't cut, pinched or plugged. Verify that it's routed correctly, away from chains, belts and exhaust pipes. The end should hang down about 1" to 2" below the frame of the bike. Finally, check the fluid in each cell. This is easy to do since most batteries have a translucent case, but you might need to shine a flashlight through the case to see the level clearly. If needed, add distilled water, being careful not to overfill. Never add tap water - it contains too many minerals and will damage the plates. Reinstall the battery.
Check the rear drive belt or chain. As chains and sprockets wear, they develop tight and loose spots. Find the tight spot in your chain before you check it. If you adjust it in a loose spot it may bind when it rolls around to the tight spot. To check for excessive wear, push up with one hand on the lower section of the chain, removing all slack. Then, with your other hand, grab the chain halfway up the backside of the sprocket by the side plates. Try to pull the chain away from the sprocket teeth. If it pulls away by more than half the diameter of the roller, you should replace the chain, the rear drive sprocket and the transmission counter sprocket as a complete set. Installing a new chain on worn sprockets will cause the chain to wear prematurely. Lube your chain, but ride the bike a few miles first. This allows the chain to warm up and expand, permitting the lubricant to reach critical parts inside the rollers. For belts, make sure the tension is correct for your model. Then inspect the belt for rocks and tooth separation. Have a friend roll the bike slowly as you watch for foreign objects embedded in the belt. If your bike has high miles, or if you live in a dusty, sandy climate, be sure to check the rear sprocket.
Inspect the tires. Make sure the air pressure is correct for the tire type and riding application - solo or two up. Check the tread for nails or screws. Again, enlist the aid of a buddy to roll the bike as you inspect the tire tread. The tire's tread should have at least 3/32" depth at the thinnest part. Most tires have safety bars incorporated into the tread pattern. As the tire wears down, the safety bar will cause the tread pattern to appear smooth all the way across in swath about two inches wide. Watch for weather checking and cracks in the tread or sidewall area.
Inspect the air filter. Remove the cover and filter element. For foam or K&N type filters remove the element from the screen, wash it out with hot, soapy water and blot it dry. Then apply the correct filter oil (don't over do it - too much oil is as bad as none). If you have a paper filter and it's dirty or contaminated with oil or water, replace it. You can not clean paper filters.
Check your throttle and clutch cables adjustment. Excess slack can cause riding problems or contribute to an accident. While you're at it, lube the cables. Dry cables increase effort and are the number one cause of cable failure. The best way is pressure lube cables is with a good quality cable lubricant and cable lubing tool - the type that clamps over and seals the end of the cable housing while allowing the cable itself to pass through. A can of lubricant is connected to the tool with a capillary tube. When actuated, the entire cable housing can be filled with lubricant.
Check the operation of headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. It might save you more than peace of mind.
Inspect brake lines and pads along with brake fluid levels. Make sure the lines show no evidence of cracking or leaks at fittings or junctions. Brake pads should never have less than 1/8" of material on either pad. Then look at the disc. If it shows heavy grooving, scoring or cracks, replace it along with a fresh set of pads. When checking brake fluid levels, be sure to clean around the reservoir cap before removing it to prevent contamination. Use the correct fluid for your application DOT-4 or DOT-5 fluid. Respect and take care of your brakes and they will take care of you. Know your machine, become your machine. Zen has alot to do with motorcycling.
Tighten those fasteners and bolts. These are the most neglected area of maintenance. Depending on what your ride is and how you ride, you may never have problems with fasteners coming loose. On the other hand, if you have a V-twin that vibrates so much your girlfriend love your bike more than you, then you will need to keep checking this bolts and re-torque using the lock-tite. Pay close attention to front and rear motor mounts, exhaust system and shock absorber mounts, belt/chain guards and, mirrors. My mirrors alway vibrate loose. Thank God for lock-tite, it puts everything back nice and snug.
Check for loose spokes (unless you have mag wheels, of course). Put the bike on a lift and rotate the wheel, using a spoke wrench. Also inspect the rim for excess run out. Use a pointer (an old coat hanger works well for this) anchored to something solid on the frame, swing arm or front end. Tighten only the loosest spokes - no more than a quarter turn per adjustment. Over tightening spokes will cause unwanted offset in the wheel, not to mention creating a bind on other spokes. Wheel spokes tend to stretch over a period of time. When new, they find their "sweet spot", as the spoke ends and nipples seat into the hub and rim, allowing spokes to loosen. After the break-in and a good spoke tightening/truing process, they continue to stretch, so the spoke tightening and truing should be done yearly or every 10,000 miles.
Contributing author to the Victory Custom shop -- Cycle Solutions http://www.CycleSolutions.net and the Victory Kingpin Cruiser Enthusiast site http://www.KingpinCruisers.net
