5 WAYS TO KEEP YOUR MOTORCYCLE IN PERFECT CONDITION (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

1) Clean. Giving your bike a spit and polish every weekend not only keeps it looking great, it also helps you spot any potential problems.

2) Tyres. Keeping your tyres in good nick is absolutely vital because they seriously affect the handling of your bike. Make sure you check your tyre pressure on a regular basis, and be aware that your tyres will need adjusting if you're carrying heavy luggage or even an extra passenger. In addition, check your tyres for wear - in the UK motorcycles over 50cc must have at least 1mm of tyre tread depth across three quarters of the width of the tread pattern and visible tread on the remaining quarter. Motorcycles under 50cc must have clearly visible groves across the original tread pattern.

3) Chain. Keep your chain tension adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines. Keep it lubricated with the appropriate chain oil, and check wear and tear on the sprockets, they'll give you a good indication if the chain has been adjusted correctly.

4) Brake pads. By cleaning your wheels regularly you'll see how much wear you have left on your brake pads. Never let them wear down to the minimum - if you do your discs will become scored and damaged which is expensive to repair. After a long ride, be sure to quickly strip and clean your pads and callipers so they perform to their best next time out.

5) Security. There's nothing more heart breaking than having a bike stolen, so always keep your bike locked to something solid and immovable. When you're buying a lock, look for one that's Thatcham Approved or Sold Secure. Also be aware that insurance companies may offer you a discount if you have evidence that your bike is locked up securely.

Ian Owen (author) - Webmaster and Editor Motorcycle Search Engine. One of ther fastest growing motorcycle websites in the UK.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance

Motorcyclist Checklist - Before you ride (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

A pre-ride checklist is a must every time you are about to take your motorcycle for a ride, but how many of us really do it every time? Here are the top ten things a motorcyclist should do regularly, especially if you're one of the many who don't make a pre-ride check every time you ride. All you need are some hand tools and basic mechanical ability. The more you know machine, the better will be your riding experience.

Check the fluids. Start with the engine oil. If it's been a while since you've ridden, start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes (fast idle is best - around 1500 RPM). This allows the oil pump to return any oil to the tank that may have seeped past the check ball in the pump, and it allows the oil to warm up slightly, giving you a more accurate check. Oil expands with heat, and your oil level will rise as the bike warms up. Check the oil in the correct position, with the bike to on the side stand or upright as recommended by the factory. Next, check the transmission oil level, following the correct procedure for your model. If your motorcycle has a wet clutch, check the primary oil level. Use Syntehtic motor oil. I prefer AMSOIL.

Check the battery. New motorcycles use a sealed battery, but older bikes still need your attention. Remove the battery for a thorough inspection, checking for corrosion at the terminals and cracks or leakage around the case. Make sure the vent hose isn't cut, pinched or plugged. Verify that it's routed correctly, away from chains, belts and exhaust pipes. The end should hang down about 1" to 2" below the frame of the bike. Finally, check the fluid in each cell. This is easy to do since most batteries have a translucent case, but you might need to shine a flashlight through the case to see the level clearly. If needed, add distilled water, being careful not to overfill. Never add tap water - it contains too many minerals and will damage the plates. Reinstall the battery.

Check the rear drive belt or chain. As chains and sprockets wear, they develop tight and loose spots. Find the tight spot in your chain before you check it. If you adjust it in a loose spot it may bind when it rolls around to the tight spot. To check for excessive wear, push up with one hand on the lower section of the chain, removing all slack. Then, with your other hand, grab the chain halfway up the backside of the sprocket by the side plates. Try to pull the chain away from the sprocket teeth. If it pulls away by more than half the diameter of the roller, you should replace the chain, the rear drive sprocket and the transmission counter sprocket as a complete set. Installing a new chain on worn sprockets will cause the chain to wear prematurely. Lube your chain, but ride the bike a few miles first. This allows the chain to warm up and expand, permitting the lubricant to reach critical parts inside the rollers. For belts, make sure the tension is correct for your model. Then inspect the belt for rocks and tooth separation. Have a friend roll the bike slowly as you watch for foreign objects embedded in the belt. If your bike has high miles, or if you live in a dusty, sandy climate, be sure to check the rear sprocket.

Inspect the tires. Make sure the air pressure is correct for the tire type and riding application - solo or two up. Check the tread for nails or screws. Again, enlist the aid of a buddy to roll the bike as you inspect the tire tread. The tire's tread should have at least 3/32" depth at the thinnest part. Most tires have safety bars incorporated into the tread pattern. As the tire wears down, the safety bar will cause the tread pattern to appear smooth all the way across in swath about two inches wide. Watch for weather checking and cracks in the tread or sidewall area.

Inspect the air filter. Remove the cover and filter element. For foam or K&N type filters remove the element from the screen, wash it out with hot, soapy water and blot it dry. Then apply the correct filter oil (don't over do it - too much oil is as bad as none). If you have a paper filter and it's dirty or contaminated with oil or water, replace it. You can not clean paper filters.

Check your throttle and clutch cables adjustment. Excess slack can cause riding problems or contribute to an accident. While you're at it, lube the cables. Dry cables increase effort and are the number one cause of cable failure. The best way is pressure lube cables is with a good quality cable lubricant and cable lubing tool - the type that clamps over and seals the end of the cable housing while allowing the cable itself to pass through. A can of lubricant is connected to the tool with a capillary tube. When actuated, the entire cable housing can be filled with lubricant.

Check the operation of headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. It might save you more than peace of mind.

Inspect brake lines and pads along with brake fluid levels. Make sure the lines show no evidence of cracking or leaks at fittings or junctions. Brake pads should never have less than 1/8" of material on either pad. Then look at the disc. If it shows heavy grooving, scoring or cracks, replace it along with a fresh set of pads. When checking brake fluid levels, be sure to clean around the reservoir cap before removing it to prevent contamination. Use the correct fluid for your application DOT-4 or DOT-5 fluid. Respect and take care of your brakes and they will take care of you. Know your machine, become your machine. Zen has alot to do with motorcycling.

Tighten those fasteners and bolts. These are the most neglected area of maintenance. Depending on what your ride is and how you ride, you may never have problems with fasteners coming loose. On the other hand, if you have a V-twin that vibrates so much your girlfriend love your bike more than you, then you will need to keep checking this bolts and re-torque using the lock-tite. Pay close attention to front and rear motor mounts, exhaust system and shock absorber mounts, belt/chain guards and, mirrors. My mirrors alway vibrate loose. Thank God for lock-tite, it puts everything back nice and snug.

Check for loose spokes (unless you have mag wheels, of course). Put the bike on a lift and rotate the wheel, using a spoke wrench. Also inspect the rim for excess run out. Use a pointer (an old coat hanger works well for this) anchored to something solid on the frame, swing arm or front end. Tighten only the loosest spokes - no more than a quarter turn per adjustment. Over tightening spokes will cause unwanted offset in the wheel, not to mention creating a bind on other spokes. Wheel spokes tend to stretch over a period of time. When new, they find their "sweet spot", as the spoke ends and nipples seat into the hub and rim, allowing spokes to loosen. After the break-in and a good spoke tightening/truing process, they continue to stretch, so the spoke tightening and truing should be done yearly or every 10,000 miles.

Contributing author to the Victory Custom shop -- Cycle Solutions http://www.CycleSolutions.net and the Victory Kingpin Cruiser Enthusiast site http://www.KingpinCruisers.net

-The Motorcycle Maintenance

Motorcycle Cylinder Repair Options (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

Modern small displacement engines use a variety of cylinder types. There are iron type cylinders and plated type cylinders. Original equipment manufactures (OEM) produce many variations of both types and all are excellent performers and very reliable. The only real issue is how do I repair my cylinder after a failure? You may think you'll never have to face that problem, but if you keep your vehicle or toy long enough you will eventually have to make this decision. In the following article I'll try to make that decision more enlightened.

Recent History of Cylinder Types The oldest and most common method of cylinder design is a cast iron block that is machined with a cylindrical bore directly from a solid casting. There is also a cast iron block that incorporates a sleeve that is pressed into the iron block. Generally iron block motors weren't very successful in small engines. Most small engines were used in vehicles and equipment that needed to be light and mobile. This made cast iron blocks undesirable for this purpose. There were a lot of single cylinder motors used in lawn mowers, construction equipment, scooters, small tractors and small motorcycles that used cast iron block motors in the early years. These began to disappear in the 60's and they were replaced by aluminum block motors with cast-in iron liners. This opened the door for new lightweight motors that could be used in many more applications and in bigger displacements than ever before. This was accomplished by placing a cast iron sleeve into the mold before the molten aluminum was poured into the mold. This made the sleeve an integral part of the cylinder block. The sleeve usually had locking rings or flanges around the outside to prevent it from slipping in the casting as the engine expanded from the heat generated by the combustion process. A major problem occurred often when air pockets would develop during the casting operation around the sleeve. This caused hot spots and often caused premature engine cylinder failure. There is another type of aluminum block with a cast iron sleeve that wasn't cast-in; it is installed in the block after casting. The cylinder bore of the aluminum block is machined to 3-5 thousands of an inch less than the sleeve diameter, block is then heated to around 600 degrees Fahrenheit, and the sleeve is dropped in. When the block cools the sleeve is held in place by the interference fit and the flange at the top or bottom of the cylinder. This cylinder can be rebuilt by simply re-heating the block to 600 degrees and removing the old sleeve and replacing it with a new one. Of course the finish bore will have to be machined to size and honed.

Near the end of the last century it was discovered that you could make a mold pattern using a computer aided molding system out of Styrofoam. This made it possible to have precise duplicate patterns of a particular cylinder that you wanted to mold of aluminum. These are placed in a mold made of sand, molten aluminum is then poured slowly into the mold melting and replacing the Styrofoam pattern. This process is called total loss mold casting. Now all they have to do is a little milling and drilling, plate the bore and hone to size. For the two stroke market the best part of this is the finished product is an identical copy of the original. The factories love this because it just eliminated a whole lot of assembly line workers. No more absenteeism, no health insurance or pensions, and no coffee breaks. As far as the consumer goes they get a cylinder that doesn't need a lot porting before they can be competitive.

There are a lot of four stroke motors that use aluminum blocks and aluminum sleeves that are plated a variety of hard finishes. These sleeves can be removed and replaced. The replacement sleeve can be either iron or aluminum. If you want an aluminum sleeve it will have to be plated after installing otherwise it won't be true and round.

There are several types of plating that has been used over the years, and the companies doing plating guard their formulas carefully. The finish in the early years was a simple chrome or hard chrome electro-plating. The plating was generally only a few thousands of an inch thick. If it was more than about ten thousands of an inch thick it was prone to chipping or flaking because of heat expansion and contraction. In the early seventies Electrofusion became popular. Electrofusion was different from electroplating in as much as it was a fusion process instead of electroplating. Next there was ceramic composites and Boron. All of these perform in about the same way as far as wear and durability. Then there was Nikasil. Nikasil was a new plating formula of nickel-silicon-carbide. It was harder than the others that came before it. For years you couldn't get a cylinder re-plated when you damaged one, the only way to get going again was to buy a new one. Now you can choose from many companies doing their own version of Nikasil.

Now let's look at a person's choice of repair or rebuilding methods for their Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile, Personal Watercraft, or Outboard. You can have your Nikasil or other plated cylinder re-plated (or some called it re-coated). This includes the composite types.

Or you can have it sleeved with a hardened alloy steel or cast iron (when you add alloys to iron its considered steel). If your cylinder has an iron sleeve already, whether it's cast-in or not, you're only real choice is replacing it with another sleeve or a sleeve liner.

Let's assume you're an avid racer and race 25 weekends a year, you're going to need a rebuild of your cylinder by the end of the year no matter what type cylinder you have. If it is a plated type cylinder you have three choices. 1- buy a new cylinder for $500-600 for the top end and expect to do the same next year. 2- re-plate it for about $300-400 with piston kit and gaskets and figure on doing it again next year. 3- have it sleeved for about $250-350 with piston kit and gaskets and next year have it bored (most models) to the next size for about $55 plus piston kit and gaskets.

A properly sleeved cylinder will perform as well as any plated cylinder. A properly sleeved cylinder is one that has the proper interference fit, proper pre-sleeve bore finish, accurate flange machining, and sleeve made from the proper alloys. The most popular sleeve is the Moly 2000 chrome-moly iron. The proper boring and honing to match the piston clearance requirements goes without saying.

Pros and Cons

Re-Plated Cylinder Bore

Pros * Small advantage in heat transfer * Slightly better wear factor * Somewhat lower co-efficient of friction * Weighs a few ounces less

Cons * Costs slightly more * Can't be bored when damage occurs * More fragile * Can flake and peel

Iron Sleeved Cylinder Bore

Pros * Costs less * Boreable for future over sizes * Honeable to keep bore true and proper ring seal * Can be worked with common tools * Can be replaced when needed

Cons * Slightly slower heat transfer

The Bottom Line Both systems perform equally well when professionally done, so it really comes down to economics. You can expect a sleeved cylinder to give more life for the money. Re-plated cylinders are as close to original as you can get. So if you're happy with your OEM plated cylinder you should have it re-plated. If not have it sleeved by a company that has the reputation, experience, and warrantees to protect your investment. http://kustom-kraft.com

Thomas Schueneman (author) is the founder of Kustom Kraft Performance of Glenwood Springs Colorado. Kustom Kraft Performance was established in 1969 and specializes in motorcycle, atv, personal watercraft, snowmobile and outboard cylinder repair and big bore kits. Thomas was a pioneer in 2 stroke engine sleeving and overbore kits. He was first to offer a 5 year warrantee on his cylinder sleeving. His performance modifications has won him many national titles.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance

10 Tips You Should Know Before Buying A Used Motorcycle (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

Motorcycles are what everyone desires. If you are considering buying a used motorcycle you will need to be savvy so that you do not get taken for a ride. Not all used motorcycles are equal. So before you pay make sure the bike you are buying is the best in its category.

Used motorcycles can be bought from family and friends, online stores, dealers, classifieds in newspapers and more. While buying a known motorcycle is your best option sometimes you may need to buy from unknown sources. Do your research well. Surf the internet and read articles and tips on bikes and what to look for when buying a motorbike. Visit a few dealers and online motorbike websites to see what is on sale in the used motorbike category. In case you are nervy take the help of an auto professional. Find out what the price is for used motorbikes this will give you an idea of brands and price range.

Before you decide on the bike consider:

1. Making a thorough inspection. Check for damage and scratches as well as bends and repair signs.

2. Study the different motorbike models and know what inherent flaws are.

3. Ask whether the bike has been raced and how many owners it has had.

4. Check the lines of the bike and the brake and clutch for smooth operation.

5. Rev the engine and listen to what it has to say. If you are tone deaf take along a biker friend.

6. Check the bike for signs of rust and paint flaking.

7. Check the wheel and tires for wear and tear.

8. Study the service records carefully.

9. Ask pertinent questions to know how the bike has been used and whether the owner takes pride in his bike. Judge whether the owner is being honest about the bikes accident free status and performance.

10. An owner who loves his bike will talk about it clearly and try and judge whether you will care for his old friend. Always make sure no modifications were done and that the service and maintenance were done by an authorized dealer with genuine parts.

Never buy the first bike you see. Buying a bike is like looking for an ever elusive pearl. Take your time and you will get a bike that will give trouble free rides. Always ask for a test ride and go through the papers to check there are no insurance or loan amounts pending. Read through sites like http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html where in depth articles are given for buyers of second hand motorbikes.

Study the bike not once but twice or even thrice before making a decision. Make sure you feel comfortable when seated on the bike. Motorbikes are like horses the owner and the motorbike must both feel as though they are one entity.

Timothy Rudon (author) is a writer for Used Motorcycles , the premier website to find motorcycles, motorcycle parts, used motorcycles, motorcycle accessories, motorcycles for sale, motorcycle insurance, electric motorcycle, and many more.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance

11 Essential Tips Regarding Motor Cycle Insurance (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

Motorcycle insurance protects you from many risks. Leading insurance companies offer a great many choices for motorcycle insurance and owners can decide whether they want minimum coverage or comprehensive coverage. Insuring a motorcycle protects the owners from theft, vandalism, accidents, and more. Motorcycle insurance can be bought online or offline from leading Insurance companies.

1. Before setting out to buy motorcycle insurance it is important to know what insurance companies base their premiums on. Surf the internet and read up on motorcycle insurance essentials.

2. If the bike is branded and comes from a reliable manufacturer, then the premiums cost less. Insurance companies compute costs of repair when setting premiums. It is advisable to enquire about insurance before buying a bike.

3. Buy a policy that covers: Liability, collision, no-fault, service coverage, uninsured coverage, passenger coverage, bodily injury coverage, theft, medical coverage, and so on.

4. Use online insurance tools to get at least three quotes for different insurance companies. Always compare insurance coverage and quotes.

5. Find out about multiple policy discounts. If you have a home or car insured and are known as a reliable risk by the insurance company they will cover the motorcycle at a discount. Ask about multiple policy discounts.

6. Follow all maintenance and safety regulations and the premiums on your motorcycle will be much lower.

7. Learn all about capping your mileage. Insurers offer great discounts to people who use their bikes sparingly.

8. Surf the internet for great discount offers on insurance and read up the latest laws and news on motorcycle insurance. This will help you lower insurance costs greatly.

9. Try and ride the motorcycle safety and take good care of wear and tear. No claims means much lowered premiums and great savings for you.

10. Factors that effect insurance premiums are: your age, make of bike, where you live, your driving record and so on. So if you reside in what is considered a safe locality then your insurance premium for the motorcycle will be reduced considerably; find out what affects premium rates and do your best to follow recommendations like safe storage of bike, no riding in winter and so on.

11. Taking DMV or special motorcycle training can get you a better insurance deal. Learn how to save by taking the required classes.

Great savings on motorcycle insurance can be made by following rules, being a responsible citizen and having lower risk factors. Learn about motorcycle riding safety, rules, laws, and more from the "Motorcycle safety Foundation," at http://msf-usa.org/ .

Timothy Rudon (author) is a writer for Motorcycle Insurance , the premier website to find motorcycle insurance, cheap motorcycle insurance, motorcycle insurance rates, motorcycle insurance online, free motorcycle insurance, motorcycle insurance quote and many more.
-The Motorcycle Maintenance

5 Benefits of Using Synthetic Motor Oils (The Motorcycle Maintenance)

A few years ago, the use of synthetic motor oils was not in vogue. It was difficult to find people who admitted to use synthetic motor oils. But, now-a-days, the use of synthetic motor oils is in vogue on account of different reasons. And off course you can find such synthetic oils one the shelves of several retailers of industrial lubricants. A number of people are turning to use of synthetic motor oils instead of traditional petroleum based motor oils.

There are several reasons and benefits of using synthetic motor oils:

1. Synthetic oils are comparatively costlier than of traditional petroleum based oils at purchase. But, these oils last long and require fewer oils changes. They have excellent heat and oxidation resistance to control sludge deposits and extend oil life. Thus, they save time and money both.

2. Synthetic oils have higher initial viscosity index and less viscosity breakdown rather than traditional industrial lubricants. They have more uniformly sized molecules and superior viscosity stability. Due to superior viscosity they provide bearing protection for trustworthy engine operation. Hence, they provide less heat and more protection to the engine. In other world, they provide longer engine life.

3. In petroleum based conventional motor or engine oils, some useless ingredients are found. To remove these ingredients from the oil is too expensive and complicated task. The breakdown of these ingredients in engine produces sludge and affects the performance of the engine and its parts and produce pollution as well. In synthetic oils such ingredients are not found. They are especially prepared for specific purposes and specific vehicles such as gear oils, motorcycle oils, heat transfer fluids, 2 stoke & 4 stroke motor oils, etc. They provide better lubrication & performance and less pollution rather than conventional engine oils.

4. In cold temperatures, conventional petroleum based motor/engine oils or lubricants become solid. But synthetic motor oils remains fluid even in extreme cold. Synthetic oils flow quickly to engine parts and help your engine operate more smoothly and efficiently over a longer period of time. The uses of synthetic engine oils reduce friction & wear greatly and make your engine enable to start faster. In this way, one can save enough per year in fuel.

5. The use of synthetic motor oils also controls acid formation providing higher protection. They help engines start easier and protect against wear.

The use of synthetic motor oils regularly makes you enable for lower maintenance and longer life of your engines and their components. Thus, you can save money by saving fuel and maintenance cost and can provide your engines longer life. You can also save the crisis of petroleum. So, always use synthetic motor oils.

Michael John (author) is an amateur writer focusing primarily on Business related topics .To find more information on industrial lubricants, metalworking fluids and greases Cutting Oils and Engine Oils visit our site at http://www.oiluk.net
-The Motorcycle Maintenance